Hanoi Day Two

Photo of Temple of Literature by Van Mieu, via Flickr

I’m sitting in the fifth courtyard of the Quoc Tu Giam –  which was established in the eleventh century as the first university in Vietnam.   It’s also called the Temple of Literature .  There was a rigorous 3-7 year series of studies, with monthly brief exams and quarterly long exams   - those who passed the final exam were granted degrees (and these were inscribed on large stones in the 1400s, which sit on stone tortoises in the third courtyard.  It was peaceful her for a bit – although I’ve just become the center of a middle school photograph.  For myself – no photographs today.  I ran out the camera battery transferring the Hanoi traffic video – and thought it would charge via the USB connection – but apparently it needs that pesky charger that is sitting 8069 miles away.  The good news is that there are camera stores on every street.  

I went to the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum and museum earlier today. I arrived when it opened at 8, and there was already a 6 block long line of people waiting to see the body of the late President, who died in 1969 at the age of 79.  “Uncle Ho,” as he was called, had explicitly asked for no state funeral “to save resources for the people” and asked that he be cremated and the ashes laid to rest on a rural hill – with places for people to rest and with trees planted all around.   Obviously, his last will and testament wasn’t followed. The grounds are immaculate, and include the traditional and modest “house on stilts” that he lived in while President.   He did state dinners in the enormous palace built by the French when they ruled Indochina, and next to his house is an enormous koi pond. Nonetheless, he’s adored as a “man of the people,” and the museum includes many photographs of him in shorts harvesting rice with the peasants, or shirtless pulling in nets with fishermen.    

I’m going to Koto for lunch – a nonprofit that overlooks the Temple of Literature and trains street kids to be chefs.   The four floors of Koto are absolutely jammed.  I walked all the way around the 8 square blocks of the Temple of Literature grounds to find this – the sign is misleading, and highlighted its motto “know one, teach one” rather than its name.   Ironically, on the walk over here, I even took a peek at the menu!  Good to build up my appetite.  

Just three and a half hour until my trip starts…. My meal has arrived so I’ll sign off.  Love this wi-fi!